高棉的真臘王朝並非ㄧ開始就建都於暹粒的吳哥 , 而是先落腳在羅洛斯附近 , 其建國初期所蓋的寺廟今日稱之為羅洛斯遺址群 , 主要包括普力科寺(Preah Ko) , 巴孔寺 (Ba Kong)與洛雷寺(Lolei) , 建於九世紀末 , 吳哥王朝的傳統是祭祀用的寺廟才以磚塊岩石建築 , 所以歷經一千多年仍能留下遺址讓後人憑弔 .
旅行社的行程安排不很恰當 , 看過許多宏偉華麗的吳哥遺址後 , 再來看早期簡樸的廢墟 , 就像吃完鮮魚大肉後端出的青菜蘿蔔 , 難以吸引人的胃口 , 羅洛斯遺址群的遊客明顯的減少 , 有不少人走到入口看看就止步不前 , 引不起前往一探究竟的興趣 , 其實這些早期的作品指導了後續吳哥建築的典範 , 看過羅洛斯遺址才能對整個吳哥遺址建築風格有個整體的了解 .
普力科寺乃因陀羅跋摩ㄧ世( 877 - 889)建都羅洛斯附近後所修建的第一座寺廟 , 格局方方正正的 , 外有低矮的護城牆及護城壕溝 , 普力科寺是建來祭祀祖先的宗廟 , 建築物分兩列 , 前一列三座廟塔用來祭祀父系祖先 , 後ㄧ列較小的廟塔祭祀母系祖先 , 廟塔前方有三座聖牛石雕 , 俗稱「聖牛廟」, 聖牛是印度教主神濕婆神的坐騎 .
普力科寺 , 前列三座廟塔祭祀父系祖先 , 早期主要建材是小型磚塊 , 廟基已加高用來防水 , 這是與洞里薩湖共生的具體表現 , 因暹粒是平坦的平原 , 在雨季洞里薩湖會氾濫成災 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjne5i6Fh2hVGiIB_Wt9l-wZQPlUpObA4cYTV97qVd9hHHLKrOYen6BCE3fa3oa3HmNBZMnwJo9i9HqACE53bDc38Bcs3Ro67fC9yBX0DbsIlA_9pj9OBBh00cT2DKVh67wmNkMHjm_OQMq/s400/991225-4%25E6%25AF%2594%25E5%2588%2597%25E7%25A7%2591%25E5%25AF%25BA+%25284%2529.jpg)
後列的三座廟塔祭祀母系祖先 , 經歷千餘年風雨 , 損毀的層度較嚴重 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilm9u-RQ2HDGyZniroAtmmp4qcFdPaAkdNXHxg3_xKy64dJDZw193KhObn1EdyMhexiU7EBWy6pnjdFVrXi_foA2omMqC7zuDae_ieIlE2Egpfk7A9ONqZ595j69sV1luoHHdrPX2LGt-p/s400/991225-4%25E6%25AF%2594%25E5%2588%2597%25E7%25A7%2591%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252819%2529.jpg)
象徵濕婆神的聖牛石雕 , 雖有部分剝蝕 , 仍可感覺其怡然自得的神韻 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84fAPAFWyRSj3kSK8FfCPY5DRfQpTNEqyAMEM3kmPGxx7W-2_S8yb98AVh8TN_QC7OQJorn5h_hWJT3ZxIBnMX-nVAA7Qqks8MMgtZTLZ5fYqNIqsMeh5JyHN-nDUq2lZ6et1DGUdX06X/s400/991225-4%25E6%25AF%2594%25E5%2588%2597%25E7%25A7%2591%25E5%25AF%25BA+%25285%2529.jpg)
普力科寺的建材主體是紅色磚塊 , 門框輔以石柱 , 門楣上則敷上灰泥精雕 , 經過千餘年風雨侵蝕 , 從當年真臘王朝的第一座寺廟 , 仍可感受到當時雕工的精湛技藝 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgIjIX4iGDv4T5Sk-EbuDfkXDPy8eZP8nVJcpGvBC9njSXs-FIJAIqEhbRazfjiWHOFHsUn5QpCrvXWoOoRUj6IOAhyphenhyphenveuGvBfe32YvZFeqHmNPj9LaXUAF7khRLoNRzLDD6mZKA9y6Cy/s400/991225-4%25E6%25AF%2594%25E5%2588%2597%25E7%25A7%2591%25E5%25AF%25BA+%25289%2529.jpg)
磚塔上的石將軍像 , 砌立千餘年威猛猶存 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8CKXFrce9eynWujzP2dt2JE0xLnHXw0SJffSW-8wvTAF6NMy1_yk-qvndIJh4CQlL1WkF701CEPPYTzQjJ3QrAGb1Pk8pd0a-yTuhaUAAYaXlTQILR0Fxe9BXHHiBgKnQypcZIsvRg-to/s400/991225-4%25E6%25AF%2594%25E5%2588%2597%25E7%25A7%2591%25E5%25AF%25BA+%25288%2529.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj-7ikHtaT3oSSJ-i27uIfrqh4MbDoUFWF-B-A-omIYSMq59V7jU0aTkNoKI2uvGVjNDjMf1qa7_bTeEYpTpGAQEmbctYyyoMuX22MkgEfdCq923JFblLtK5vs6JykqJwOzGZ4gPifGprb/s400/991225-4%25E6%25AF%2594%25E5%2588%2597%25E7%25A7%2591%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252811%2529.jpg)
鎮守廟前的石獅雕像 . 吳哥王朝的廟宇雛形已初步完成 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3DJMxh5k-BK-ToGDHdZ2sLnll9ULRgocji7Mw12SRwc9JwnB3SFZFd9b_0_djkePcjm9JjunUDHTVBDIUKuICXemG3QymB_Pr4bUP_ObM0Lsb-VsqPemcroeHEEWM_15DcMVS81ty5JCs/s400/991225-4%25E6%25AF%2594%25E5%2588%2597%25E7%25A7%2591%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252821%2529.jpg)
普力科寺前方有一石雕場 , 學藝的童工正努力完成初雕的工作 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2WakuXN9ApP_ROfbBOdp5TtiQKbT9tcTloN0cbfLyH68tkXdZ82kDMrRBC_Z8U8QqYO0d5oeGJdy37DqxT67uUx3qtvOOp9XfKnTPRvMVPHuJSmGZN_tA02oIlPFfS4IEGyNBicxQsRE/s400/991225-5%25E9%259B%2595%25E5%2588%25BB%25E5%25AD%25B8%25E8%2597%259D+%25282%2529.jpg)
巴孔寺是因陀羅跋摩ㄧ世建都羅洛斯後 , 於九世紀末(881年)修建的第一座祭拜山神的「神殿山」, 主塔座落在金字塔型的五層基座上 , 象徵著須彌山 , 中間一條陡直的階梯 , 遠望與中美洲的瑪雅古文明真有幾分神似 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7O31SCG9RYqhGxQvbgYmMhAHRMUnVObGOTWhOy4jH-wtwePLtkZZcAlwlDej-YCucIttrN276q9EHdido5c5L2yFF9p6ZI-zcvomcb4hv7FrI251lIJe5Fg1m8jkM4TiXF5JeBgTg7Ksz/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%25283%2529-1.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2e41MIMKrUz-6OQZzXs2IudmWU61SSNx6tT2OwKMZs_lIdNf_voHAsb86PHsFXMlqpj43iI-NHTomkzr9bsY9emDhg5_nlA5JJZ6P96PPy3kGg5VB8yNQ2RpGxrnTM1v-t2I77ypUWdJI/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252870%2529.jpg)
巴孔寺的主體建築材料已由紅磚改為岩石 , 由岩石堆疊的粗糙中 , 仍可看出經過修飾的細工 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsazrr4dUbtC2akl4F9WfM-6_mutUmXoawKoOwwFGGUGkJgYulXejg7ssbPsT0HsCiDhyphenhyphenssOkG4B_JD-imzoUPK3_OcezlQMQAczRjU8scoj47yV75F9gDwSRLVdKkZ0pB19PFW2aa8NFk/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252826%2529.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF1I2V9E8YY0Zg73rQE2RYSIkiPhl3FIcGC6Phza7tVL-gXAmMa2_X5F7LjjUDxQef3ogvKvyJQr2alJ-KLouIvj679MFYBcJ4oWZgqsk5xjT5vo2AGntnh1Q7_1DseojzKyHcB4S2m4Ju/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252838%2529.jpg)
雕工精緻的石象 , 這在吳哥遺址處處可見 , 每件都是藝術精品 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUme7IU1hN_zC6z_hsOR_OPsldu763bsuXfeXmVm_AClwL36IkJBQhL8s37xtTA8XWJsUv4nDcrW3EdrkwVuIZJH2rLwiX_blE7MFWth4Za6OXnvs625kJ83x64jr4F3HTaNwRaEFFliZT/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252841%2529.jpg)
有點卡通造型的石獅像 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGK4dilFdPXXzf0R-fmEPfF-_nVSFq3Zbb4dNcG4i6w37sL_5xrVJMGOCRudujkd8f8S-V2lxTkyNy1hccmSchCStNurlUu7OvF22Nylplzaadx5snNoXmZ36k1eEiXRBGn-QfaADcwoNc/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252862%2529-1.jpg)
已成吳哥寺廟建築標準典型的巴孔寺 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDBfJ_rC4eildlhbdxbKIp6a8Q-m_zoBdo5-ISZkuBRFOKanRH4fLKDnBrS1NKpQq-agYPgaqzYwcwYa6aCBgPVy6NLrCCh2-h3BkbDMpEpdnbm3FDbFtqHDQ2f4ZZXTnxxwV-wrDOLNd_/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252856%2529.jpg)
緊鄰巴孔寺旁的現代寺廟 , 形成現代文明與古蹟廢墟的強烈對照 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MqZIwB2iOS10K6PjhyphenhyphenJLNb5wDF5SGHhaWzDuxOf70YCi9eBX0xWd9ssDhw-WYEYSy5ARmJof2DZyqGtIUFfr-jHtJ9jjJKud0PoQVeILQTQT1_E2c-33lw-q78gT1YewI-JncFvgxkmP/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252821%2529.jpg)
巴孔寺周邊的廢墟 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLZ5-Q9C5sHI6g83bwmRg3-JVEhqdsBlTvlYLZu0RZoPOx4qg1fmdwuNwEEzGG6yS0Fi_nQAIZ95rw5TwkePqJ2f8BvjB-qOhwyG0zq564hiqjcjGVTpHYoQSDtkAQXvLPOylyfjnOGx9D/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252867%2529.jpg)
巴孔寺後方樹下一組因誤觸地雷而殘廢的民眾組成的樂團 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdfElgksrtlcblURyEgOZsQ7tpAFXzaUjvvrrN9lEOe03pO2_V7MNaham-I5Fqs7z8BQ1r7ONfqqk2eYUR_xlYbOKd3YyWt3cSBx36vj-Re7pmGPt-Gfv9hpfisibySnCKpJMwwjwOi5Ng/s400/991225-6%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%25AD%2594%25E5%25AF%25BA-%25E6%25AE%2598%25E9%259A%259C%25E8%2597%259D%25E4%25BA%25BA+%252852%2529.jpg)
洛雷寺是因陀羅跋摩ㄧ世繼巴孔寺後第一座向神祈福的寺廟 , 修建在一座水庫中 , 水庫是因應洞里薩湖雨季氾濫而建的浩大工程 , 將挖出的泥土堆置人工湖中央 , 再修建神廟以祈求保佑 , 洛雷寺是由繼任的耶輸跋摩ㄧ世接續完成 , 門柱上梵文碑銘記載完成於893年 , 現洛雷寺幾已成廢墟 , 水庫則變成稻米良田 , 吳哥王朝留下的歷史遺跡太多 , 經過長久戰亂的柬埔寨國力衰弱 , 無力照顧眾多遺址 , 國際組織也只能重點協助 , 所以比較偏遠或不被重視的地方只能以廢墟收場 .
德國專家正協助搶修已成廢墟的洛雷寺 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0MFgWbUkrbhy2DQ_7DZ6swJISdZNlp3_9K9asSa1XA73aM1SaSGaTflYsvMg1sIqbmDJuwmU2ivulNcYy2_HE12hTGofs_gvGQgKovRKNoK7VwozZcm8Y8rC4t0m4nWNscSbIZQqz-knv/s400/991225-2%25E7%25BE%2585%25E8%2595%25BE%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252830%2529.jpg)
洛雷寺的主體建材仍使用紅磚 , 僅門框為石造 , 其門楣上的灰泥浮雕已部份剝落 . 此種磚造建築 , 荒廢千餘年後仍砌立不倒 , 實不能說不是奇蹟 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVSMGKxkeJHtqx0RKIqkFtCCBrsiIBKAaIJfyn4QWvBzty8Hs6d7LBuUSNU_kfoi6w5fzaMao1z2QDa_nihToaL-g8iK4GmFvh2L8OPGMGb2-jcWofPfA_pmMORA7F3_DpdJzI9tqldlE/s400/991225-2%25E7%25BE%2585%25E8%2595%25BE%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252812%2529.jpg)
門柱上的浮雕 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1ML4oAQASbS_C9QkGu9uU6QW7G9mT1yIYbqqbIZL7-yHzqG_mDzrdigahhsg86uZBeW1_uV1ZDMIQ8UJVbzT1FyDILeTzs4CdRB0DHY_jXdoqgbmjMC-LwsaRJx69_CiEfwoujwAYJrZ/s400/991225-2%25E7%25BE%2585%25E8%2595%25BE%25E5%25AF%25BA+%25284%2529-1.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWLMUQNsKf4qG_-g4eoCimTtJq6iGBrUDN2UfXbxgZs1dAgiQr5s5WeTdEXxm9ThwDX-GyP-XdLAveH0PqXjaLfNINdL3AyL4chHFccrGeMbbcbBcD-jPQvbGZ5b6Xdr_mAG1Ef7GqUWWS/s400/991225-2%25E7%25BE%2585%25E8%2595%25BE%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252816%2529-1.jpg)
門柱上的梵文碑銘 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJvKlJvh0YhX8Ql_aCRshxi4fuT2271OFUdi-koWZd7Mh6hN8MpNvfoqVR7VmtR-NXe8IoWpLakSIw0VWvYvuTdqqlvbHPfcN_ZGJXVuVR15kmGLbvYj4CWqPnm5hbXC2jssdxdiGXO0_n/s400/991225-2%25E7%25BE%2585%25E8%2595%25BE%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252817%2529-1.jpg)
洛雷寺左方有一木造小型僧侶學校 , 樓上可見小沙彌正在研讀經典 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnV1R56AvPF1JI5mG0CDb3N8sK_ebL2A1T9XX3m7cn3WD38qgYaQX-9g3VcuhjbxKg8irlhksiq1EorDgAqOin_q_RFJynOlTJfoEPhSkeX2tnT1eL2LxBXOt9PIbbXWSw1L0ctjjoQ626/s400/991225-2%25E7%25BE%2585%25E8%2595%25BE%25E5%25AF%25BA+%252828%2529.jpg)
洛雷寺右方則是一座現代的寺院 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUK1SB1gUt0Kbs53ygZeLi4PSWyCkLoN2rJngOwBklAe9HBsFkwVfrQuQs8Fj1gVELoDeuzCF6_Pq9hvFU3GpaxC1CnsM8lXyBiZxkze9mufzrWm16eyBTk_FCP9c1u4kVKzaJMP6Vmezf/s400/991225-2%25E7%25BE%2585%25E8%2595%25BE%25E5%25AF%25BA+%25285%2529.jpg)
在回程的車上獵得ㄧ處鄉間高腳茅屋 .
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiylIMzRjq1hz-kcexdXqbq-rF7eDfq9U9Scupy_PJ_2R_TGfrW9hSAFH1CtBfFdLGdVnQopTahGJnQPWmUl8prP-zlKry8sNRaB1DECk6MG-2EgJy3cjrrBrVSClGRCVXGTu57-5UN2hK/s400/991225-3%25E9%25AB%2598%25E8%2585%25B3%25E8%258C%2585%25E5%25B1%258B+%25281%2529.jpg)
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